My "Shop" is a small two car detached garage behind my house.
Airplanes have been built in a smaller space so I won't complain. The
individual parts (wing, fuselage, etc.) can all be built in this space, and will
only be taken to a hangar at the airport for final wing and tail attachment.
Building near the house is extremely important, rather than building the
complete airplane at another location. There are a lot of times when you
can easily spend an hour building if you don't have to get in the car and drive
somewhere else first.
This photo shows as much as I can of my 2 car garage after
the QuickBuild fuselage has arrived and while one wing is on the stand and the
other is in the cradle pushed up next to it. My main work area is on the
table in the center, and also on the table to the right. The workbench is
out of frame to the left. This was taken mid-work session. I try to
make sure everything is put away after each session so I'm not continually
hunting for tools.
Here's a photo of my workbench area. The most important things in this
picture are the peg-board tool storage area (so that tools aren't hidden away in
a drawer or laying on top of work surfaces) and the multi-drawer cabinets. (for
holding small tools and all the rivets, nuts, bolts, etc.) It is important
to inventory the small parts when they arrive with the kit and then put them in
labeled drawers so you can find them later.
The primary power tools that are necessary are the band saw, belt sander,
bench grinder, and drill press. I wouldn't attempt this project without
them.
In addition to this workbench (that is covered with tools) I have a large
folding table that can be moved around or folded up as needed and another large
table (3'x6') built out of 3/4" plywood on higher legs for more comfort
while working standing up.
You'll also notice that most of the pictures that I've taken are fairly
bright, and I haven't used a flash. This is because I've installed two
separate 8' fluorescent light units on the ceiling that put out an incredible
amount of light. There is nothing worse than working in a typical dark
garage without enough light.
The following is a complete list of tools and comments that I wrote after the
first couple months of construction to help other builders:
Here's a list of my initial RV9a tool order from
Avery tools, created with the assistance of
George Orndorff at his sheet metal class, and with help from another RV builder.
I've already used nearly every tool on this list in building the HS alone, or can already see where I'm going to need
them somewhere soon. There are tools that are not on this list that I will need for later stages of construction, but I'll buy them (or borrow them) when the time comes. All of the Avery tools are very high quality
and are priced right. Service has been wonderful from them.
Building is so much easier when you have the right tools for the job and aren't trying to make something work or are waiting for an order to arrive.
575 - vice grip seamer
500 - fluting pliers
1001 - C frame dimpling (and riveting) tool
10765 - Poly mallet (or get one at the hardware store, but this one is nice)
3/32 DDS - spring back dimple die
1/8 DDS - dimple die
#6 DDs - dimple die
#8 DDS - dimple die
1022 - pop rivet dimple die 1/8"
550 - vice grip 1/8" dimplers
1601 - universal head squeezer set 3/32
1602 - universal head squeezer set 1/8
1623 - 1/4" flat squeezer (quantity 2)
200X - 2X rivet gun (or 3X if you prefer) or both!
954 - air line swivel (one for each pneumatic tool, except pneumatic squeezer)
150 - air tool regulator (I don't have one, but others swear by them)
808 - marvel oil
4704 - 1/8" 3 1/2" universal rivet shank
4724 - 1/8" 7 1/2" universal rivet shank
1047 - flush rivet swivel set
302 - 1" flush rivet set (optional)
1048 - back rivet set
1065 - back rivet plate (or other 1/4" steel plate)
1300 - rivet cutter
610 - bucking bar
615 - bucking bar
620 - bucking bar
7888 - air drill
#12 - drill bit
#30 - drill bit
#41 - drill bit (for #40 holes - a little smaller for better rivet fit)
11/64 - drill bit
3/16 - drill bit
1/4 - drill bit
#F - drill bit
6" #41 drill bit
6" #30 drill bit
12" #41 drill bit
12" #30 drill bit
1100 - drill stop set (optional)
UBX3 - unibit 1/4-3/4"
1180 - plate nut jig (optional)
5105 - chip chaser (optional)
757 - 3/32 pin punch
758 - 1/8 pin punch
19360 - Micro stop countersink
1051 - countersink cutter #40
42145 - countersink cutter #30
1046 - speed deburring tool
59010 - deburring hex adapter w/cutter
200 - cleco pliers (get 2 pair if you will have help)
1016 - 3/32 clecos (quantity 200 at least)
1017 - 1/8 clecos (quantity 100)
2018 - 5/32 clecos (quantity 10)
2019 - 3/16 clecos (quantity 10)
1014 - side grip clamps (1/2 x 1") quantity 6-12
7447 - Scotch brite hand pads (general) get several
7448 - Scotch brite hand pads (ultra fine) get several
3753 - large scotch brite wheel (I've found it works best in the drill press instead of the grinder)
934 - scotch brite mandrel (for mounting wheel in drill press)
2400 - emery cloth roll (240 grit)
710 - vixen file
1044 - double edge deburring tool
646 - steel rule (6")
1846 - steel rule (18")
811 - rivet tape
1007 - rivet guage set
1345 - pocket bolt guage (optional)
58337 - L metal snips
58338 - R metal snips
25500 - pop rivet tool
1042 - edge rolling tool
201 - Scotch brite polishing wheel kit (very nice to have)
48165 - 4" vice grip C-clamps (nice to have)
48180 - 6" vice grip C-clamp (nice to have)
If you go with a pneumatic squeezer, which I'm glad I did...
7525 - Pneumatic rivet sqeezer with 2 1/2" Yoke (or bigger, if you want, but I haven't needed it yet)
274 - adjustable set for squeezer (much better than using washers)
7795 - quick change yoke pins (for when you get your 2nd yoke)
(eventually I'll probably end up getting a no-hole yoke too)
Otherwise, substitute the Avery hand squeezer, because you can use the same yokes when you eventually do buy the pneumatic squeezer. ;-)
Other tools and tips...
Several sizes of metal files
Good set of eye protection (you'll be wearing them a lot)
Good set of hearing protectors (you'll be wearing them a lot)
Good carpenter's tool belt... one with big nail pockets (for clecos) on the front. It is great having several tools handy and your clecos right where you need them.
(although I don't use this much anymore)
A couple 50-drawer organizers. Put your small tools in one and your rivets and small parts in another. Mount them on the wall so they don't tip over. Label every drawer with stickers. You'll always know where everything is.
A 3'x6' pegboard -- hang ALL of your tools up where you can see them and they are out of the way and you'll be much happier while you're working.
GOOD fluorescent lighting - worth every penny to have a well-lit workspace. If you'll be in a cold garage, get the kind that work in cold weather or they'll be dim and flicker a lot.
Other shop tools -
I already had a delta benchtop band saw - get one if you don't have one, and
buy a fine-tooth metal cutting blade.
I also had a fairly large benchtop drill press, and wouldn't attempt this project without it.
A simple jigsaw comes in handy when cutting out the HS blocks. (but the
bandsaw works better, and a die grinder with cutoff wheel works great)
A rechargeable power screwdriver (use with the hex adapter) is nice when deburring holes.
(I also use the air drill with the air turned down so it turns very slowly)
A soldering iron that you can round the tip on can be used to remove strips of plastic from the skins.
I already had a small 1 1/2 hp, 5 gal oil-free compressor that got the job done for the first 50 hours of building, but it almost drove me out of the garage with the noise. Every time I picked up the drill, the dog left the room. I broke down and bought a Campbell Hausfeld Oil-lube 4.5HP, 20 gal compressor last week, and it is music to my ears. Definitely should have bought this on day one. (oil-lube is important, oil-free means LOUD!)
After spending 2 hours fabricating the first HS hold down angle, I went out and bought a Delta benchtop belt sander, a bench grinder and a new, fine-tooth blade for the band saw. I built the 2nd one in about 15 minutes. The right tools make all the difference and will cut hours and lots of frustration out of your project... you might as well get them now.
2/4/02
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Additional Tools purchased:
Die grinder from Harbor Freight (and
cutoff wheel)
Tank dimple dies from Cleaveland tools
4580 Extra long back riveting set
635 3 lb bucking bar
200 more 3/32 clecos
#19 drill bit
212 Parker flaring tool
no hole yoke
