Fuselage 4

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Back to Fuselage 3

I've thought long and hard about how to finish the interior of the plane.  I originally thought that a fully decked out leather interior was the only way to go.  Then reality set in and I'm thinking that leather seats still might be a possibility, with some cloth on selected interior surfaces, and paint everywhere else.  By the time I'm done, cloth seats will probably do just fine.

I've also thought a lot about various colors, and was just about to go the typical light grey route,  but decided at the last minute to go with a kind of off-white/cream color.  The official name is "Tractor White" from the Sherwin Williams automotive finishing store.  This sounded appropriate for an airplane to me.

This acrylic enamel paint is a 3 part (paint, reducer, hardener) mixture that costs more than you want to know.  This stuff isn't cheap

Here's a shot of some of the paint and equipment.  I'm just using a cheap HVLP detail gun from Harbor Freight, and I've added a filter and dryer to the gun to keep any water out.

I've separated the garage in two sections with a clear plastic dropcloth to keep one side "clean" and the other dirty.  Clean air is sucked into the garage through a perfectly sized dog door on the clean side using a Delta Air cleaner and it goes out though the slightly opened garage door on the "dirty" side.

I'm not an expert on painting by any stretch of the imagination, and I'm learning a lot as I go.   Here are a few things I've learned so far:

#1) Priming with a dull primer that dries in seconds is easy.  Painting with a glossy paint that takes a while to dry is extremely difficult.  Dust specks will show up everywhere unless you have a paint booth with filtered air.  Runs and sags are all too easy to create because of the numerous angles and surfaces in the interior.  Overspray onto a previously painted surface will ruin a nice glossy surface.  I'm about to find out if some rubbing and buffing compound will help.

#2) Don't use syringes to measure the paint.  It might work for primer, but the silicone lubricant in the syringes will cause "fisheyes" like you won't believe.  Any oil or dirt on the surface will cause similar problems

#3) Paint fumes are nasty.  The respirator I was using with 2 large filter cartridges would seem like it was working because you can't smell the fumes, but I didn't feel right for several hours afterwards so I knew something was getting through.  I borrowed a forced fresh air mask from Doug Reeves and I'll never paint without one again.  I'm also wearing latex gloves and a Tyvek coverall to keep the paint off of me and the lint off of my parts.

#4) Painting is slow.  You can only work for a short time before you need to stop and wait for everything to dry.

I've started by painting every removable surface first.  I'm guessing that it must be a lot easier to paint these outside the plane in a flat orientation.

After a while, it will seem like every available surface in the shop is covered with interior parts.

Here's the interior after the first coat.  I'm not painting the forward floor or firewall because they'll be covered with carpet and insulation.

I'm rotating the entire fuse onto either side to keep the surface that is being painted horizontal if possible.

I finally attached the left and right steps with the help of an RV8 builder in town.  I'm glad I left these off for as long as possible because I've already hit my shins on them several times since they were installed. 

Now with that taken care of, I could rivet in the baggage floor skins.  I'm using pop-rivets here since I don't plan on putting anything under them. 

I've been working on the upper front fuselage between paint sessions to keep my sanity.  (I hate painting)

 

 

This is the map box being fitted.  It protrudes through a cutout in the subpanel.  Several support angles have yet to be attached.

Here's another shot from the front.  The hole has not been cut in the panel yet.  You must also trim the side support where it attaches to the subpanel for the map box to fit.

 

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