On my quickbuild kit, the brackets attached to the spar where the fuel and brake tubes passed through already had the grommets installed.  However, once the gear attach brackets were in place, I noticed that the bracket interfered with the bottom grommet hole for the fuel line.

To fix this problem, I riveted a piece of aluminum to the brackets, and drilled two new holes for the grommets.

I was then ready to try and install the tube from the fuel selector valve out through the side skins.  This looked to be the most difficult routing by far, because of the bends near the valve, the grommets it must pass through, and then the tight bends through the gear leg attach brackets.  I cut a 33" piece of tubing, flared one end, and made the appropriate bends on that end. I then pushed the tubing down from the valve side, through the center bracket that was temporarily detached from the spar, towards the gear attach bracket.  I used the spring bender on the tube as it went through the gear attach and out the side, bending and pushing the tube further inch by difficult inch.  It actually went into place in less time than it took to bend the long fuel vent tubes!

The long tubes from the brake bracket on the firewall to the gear exit locations was next.  This required a long (66") piece of tubing to be snaked through the gear attach bracket, along the spar, and then along the floor, where it eventually makes a couple of bends to the fittings attached to the firewall.  Again, I flared one end, and started pushing the tube bit by bit around corners and through grommets.  You can't even try to keep the tubing straight, it will be wavy when you're through, but it will be pretty well hidden anyway.

By they way, I'm planning on painting the interior, tubing and all, after everything possible has been installed.

I also fabricated the two elevator pushrods.

I started working on the roll bar, and fabricated the numerous angles necessary to attach it to the fuselage.  On my quickbuild fuselage, where the roll bar attaches to the fuselage, it appears as though they forgot to trim a piece as required for the tip-up model only.  They did cut the small hole for the latches, however, so I'm not sure why they missed this step.  I'll check with Van's and see if I just need to trim the shaded area to fix it.

I'll cut the hole for the canopy latches here later.

This is the beginning as I'm drilling through the bottom channel into the joining piece

Solid, countersunk rivets are used on one half of the rollbar, and then the top half is joined, drilled, and fastened with countersunk pulled rivets.  During drilling of the top section, I used pieces of plywood with a 1.5" cutout to hold the pieces at a uniform distance from each other.

After a LOT of hours, the rollbar is ready to be attached using angles on the left and right side.  Some of the rollbar bottom edge must be cut away to nestle down on the angles.  The angle must also be belt sanded (off the plane) so the exterior skins will lay flush.  Holes must be drilled, countersunk, and tapped for screws.

Here's the reverse view.  The holes through the angle aren't finished yet.

While all that work at the attach angles is going on, the top bracket must already be in place to hold the correct angle.

And the rear attach point.

Finally, when the skin is attached, it will look like this.  The rear canopy window will slip in between the skin and the roll bar.

I'm also starting to get ready to prime and paint the interior... still a lot of little things to finish up though before I'm ready for that.