This is the right gear leg, looking down on it from behind showing the brake flange bolted in place with the brake mount fitted.

The aluminum piece that the wheel pants attach to is held on by three bolts and spacers to keep it away from the brake disc.

The brake bleed valve (black) must be moved to the bottom for one brake (they both arrive the same way).  The pad is unbolted from the brake.  The brake is then slid into the two holes and it "floats." 

This is what it looks like with the wheel in place and the brake caliper bolted in place around the disc.  The nut holding the wheel on could fall off and the wheel would be still held in place by the brake caliper!

This is the canopy in place over the center roll bar.  I've put marks at the cut line right over the plastic.  Next, I used a knife to cut right through the top layer of plastic to lightly score the plexi.

The garage is about 70 degrees. Good enough... time to make the cut!

This is the first pass, just a quick run with the cutter to get about half way through.

By the way, if you've managed to get the canopy close to the roll bar at the top, it will fall into place nicely after the cut is made.

Now it is time to deal with the ears that overlap the canopy at the front corners.  I cut the aluminum into more of a V shape rather than a skinny U to make more room  for the plexi to go through.

Get a box that is just the right size, put it on a narrow table, throw a couple of towels on it for padding, and you'll have a great way to position the canopy for all the trimming and polishing you'll be doing for the next 6 hours or so.  It will hold the rear window nicely while you work on it too.

I drilled the holes in the canopy frame side, and marked the top of the joggle to make it easier to see.  After trimming the canopy to the line, I drilled through the canopy to the holes using a plexi bit.  I also drilled the canopy to the rest of the frame the same way.

Here a shot of the canopy completely drilled and clecoed to the frame.

I then started work on the rear window.  After fitting and drilling, it needed a bit of trimming at the roll bar.  I put down a strip of tape with the edge where I wanted the cut line, and then trimmed to the line.  This is the picture after it was put back in place.

Now I needed to trim the rear edge of the front canopy because it overlapped the rear window.  I put a piece of masking tape down on the roll bar, and put the rear window in place.  I then drew a black line on the tape along the window edge. 

I then removed the rear window, and put the front window back in place.  Now, I can put down a strip of tape on the front window, with the edge right over the black line, and trim it to size.

Here are a few photos of the side canopy details as I worked on fitting them correctly.

I finally riveted the top canopy frame skin, and the sides came around nicely to match the fuselage sides.  I filled the pop rivets along the top with epoxy and filler.

The canopy brace is an optional part that should just come with the kit.  This shows the brace installed after I painted the first coat under it.

I put spacer blocks between the upper canopy skin and the frame where they didn't fit quite right.  Then I filled the space with epoxy and filler.  This photo shows an intermediate step.  After filling it, I used a scotchbrite roloc pad in a die grinder to smooth it off nice and flat.

I reworked the rollbar, sanding most of the paint off, and filling all the space around the rivets and the centers of the pop-rivets.  I think it looks a lot nicer this way.

I installed the manual aileron trim one evening since I was getting tired of seeing it on the shelf.  The wires to the springs are temporary.

Screws will go through the radio trays into the large angles in the front panel.  The angles extend all the way up to accommodate future radio expansion and the hole in the subpanel is big enough for expansion as well.  I'll just need to enlarge the front panel hole for more radios in the future.