I
ordered the Finish kit on 10/15/02. Van's told me it would ship on
January 15, 03.
I got a call from the shipper on January 16, telling
me that they just received a box from Van's and it would be arriving at my
house on Monday the 20th. Does Van's wait until the shipping date
that they tell you when you order or are they just that good? The
shipping cost from Van's to my house in Dallas, TX is $358 + $87 for a
lift gate truck.
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Well, a
shipping snafu caused them to be late and I had a plane to catch. I
arranged for the box to be dropped off in my driveway on the day I would
return. This was what I found in my driveway when I got home. |
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Here are a few of the parts from the finish
kit. The cowling is pretty obvious. The wheel pants are the
green things under the fuselage, and the engine mount is on the lower
right. The canopy is safely inside on the guest bed, and the cat
enjoys sleeping under it. |
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I started working on the canopy hinge points but
found that I was missing a piece of the .25 UHMW plastic from bag
911. I also found that the instructions call for some UHMW plastic
anti-scuff tape to be used in a couple of places but there isn't any
included in the kit. I went ahead and built the canopy latch
mechanism. (sorry, no pics) |
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This must be the part of the kit where things start
to really slow down. It seems like I can work for hours with nothing
to show for it.
I spent lots of time working on this forward canopy
area. There is a lot of tweaking to get everything to fit right
without rubbing, binding, etc. I'm having a very hard time opening
the canopy without the two pieces of skin binding together at the top
where they butt against each other. For some reason, the canopy skin
doesn't lift up and away, it wants to go forward first. |

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There also seems to be a problem with the canopy skin
fitting down correctly on the aluminum tube that runs across the top of
the instrument panel. There is about a 1/4" gap on the right
and left sides. Can this be normal? The blue line shows where the
tube should be touching the skin. (the tube is reflected in the skin) |
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This is the canopy frame clamped in place.
There are wood blocks to keep the spacing correct between the canopy frame
and the roll bar. (seen in the next photo) The clamps will be moved
to the INSIDE before the canopy is fitted! |
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This shows the spacing blocks in place. |
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I drilled the holes for the engine mount one evening
when I had a few extra RV minutes (those are hours in real time), and put
the canopy in place to get an idea of where the first trimming cuts would
need to be made. |
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This is what the front edge looks like after one of
the first cuts. |
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Then I fit the canopy back on and draw a new line for
the next cut. I then used a knife to score the plexi right on this
line. I could then peel the tape and plastic back, and retape just
inside the cut line. (Your mileage my vary, but this worked for me) |
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This is the back with a rough cut line drawn
in. Once the back is cut short enough, it can be fitted under
the rear aluminum skins for a better idea of how the plexi is fitting over
the top of the roll bar. |
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I found a fast way to smooth the edges is a
scotchbrite twist-loc pad in a die-grinder. It removes the sharp
edges from the cut very quickly. |
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I decided to cut my saw horse down to about 17"
off the floor. This makes it a lot easier to work on the canopy and
get in and out of the cockpit to work inside. This is another one of
those things I should have done sooner. Notice the plastic sheeting
over the rear of the fuselage. While cutting the plexiglass, white
"snow" will cover everything in the room unless it is covered. |
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